acoustics101v3_0 19 | Biblioteca audio auralex

The sill plate (bottom framing member of the wall) actually rests on two layers of SheetBlok to

StopGapTM. (StopGap is an approved substitute for gypsum board "mud." Tape and finish as you

the structure. Air and mass are your friends. Give strong consideration to making a layer of SheetBlok

come into direct contact with your sill plate, thereby maintaining the level of decoupling you need!

the same. The preference if you have the space is 2x6 or larger because they allow for more trapped

Figure 3.2; this staggering applies to wall, ceiling and floor materials) and, if used, the preferred

Same goes for when you are anchoring the walls to an existing floor (Figure 3.1b). If you must bolt,

isolation, too. Nails or screws serve as bridges acoustically and transmit sound from one layer to the

layer, gluing one atop the next. This makes fewer penetrations than if you screwed down each layer.

screw or otherwise secure the sill plate, use the least number of connection points that you can get

mechanisms. These devices provide rubber grommets for the solid bolt to go through so it does not

part of your floor sandwich.

When layering, subsequent sheets of material should be rotated 90 degrees so no seams line up (see

SheetBlok to the bottoms of the wall plates and joists instead of nailing it; in fact, wherever possible

other too well, so you want to avoid them whenever possible. Pick screws over nails (preferably used

If for whatever reason you cannot build your wall/floor exactly as pictured, be it a space limitation,

reason gluing is always recommended is that the adhesive itself will contribute some degree of sound

lack of funds, etc., first try to grasp the concepts used in the construction pictured. If you are serious

We suggest gluing the particle board down and caulking the seams and boundaries. Repeat for each

normally would.)

as any penetrations more on that elsewhere) particularly where different materials meet. Leave

in conjunction with glue) because they form a tighter bond that yields fewer resonances. Example:

previously, all seams regardless of material used must be sealed up tight with something like

"tongue and groove" (T&G) materials should be glued together at each T&G joint. As mentioned

about wanting to stop sound transmission, it is imperative that you isolate the sources of sound from

may not matter as much as the proper implementation of the materials. I.e., the general method stays

air space and better overall decoupling. It is advisable to caulk all edges, seams and corners (as well

many screws as they think is necessary. Even as often as every 4"! This is far too many for acoustical

away with is preferred.

purposes. So keep an eye on any hired help and let them know that as few screws as they can get

decouple it from the existing or floated floor. In a perfect world it would be preferable to glue the

do not have the space you can use 2x4s, 2x3s or even 2x2s for the floor. The specific material used

away with. And if you are anchoring to concrete slab, look into spending a little extra on isolated bolt

If you must screw the layers (this is very often the practical reality), be aware that it is not "the end of

about a Ľ" gap in parallel seams and perpendicular corners and use our new acoustical sealant,

completed a build-out on a new facility. You should be aware that most "drywallers" will simply use as

the world." Just be sure to go with the absolute least number of screws possible. We recently

throughout the framing, glue any materials you can together rather than nailing or screwing them. The

StopGap.